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Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

  • L. Cavaleri
  • , S. Abdalla
  • , A. Benetazzo
  • , L. Bertotti
  • , J. R. Bidlot
  • , Breivik
  • , S. Carniel
  • , R. E. Jensen
  • , J. Portilla-Yandun
  • , W. E. Rogers
  • , A. Roland
  • , A. Sanchez-Arcilla
  • , J. M. Smith
  • , J. Staneva
  • , Y. Toledo
  • , G. Ph van Vledder
  • , A. J. van der Westhuysen

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)164-233
Number of pages70
JournalProgress in Oceanography
Volume167
DOIs
StatePublished - Oct 2018

Keywords

  • Water waves
  • Wave dynamics
  • Wave forecasting
  • Wave measurements
  • Wave-current interactions
  • Wind-wave interactions

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Aquatic Science
  • Geology

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