Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

L. Cavaleri, S. Abdalla, A. Benetazzo, L. Bertotti, J. R. Bidlot, Breivik, S. Carniel, R. E. Jensen, J. Portilla-Yandun, W. E. Rogers, A. Roland, A. Sanchez-Arcilla, J. M. Smith, J. Staneva, Y. Toledo, G. Ph van Vledder, A. J. van der Westhuysen

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)164-233
Number of pages70
JournalProgress in Oceanography
Volume167
DOIs
StatePublished - Oct 2018

Keywords

  • Water waves
  • Wave dynamics
  • Wave forecasting
  • Wave measurements
  • Wave-current interactions
  • Wind-wave interactions

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Aquatic Science
  • Geology

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